Curly Girl Method/Essentials


 

The #1 thing in my opinion, when dealing with curly or kinky hair is to avoid the use of sulfates and silicones. This method was created by Lorriane Massey, and she also has a book called Curly Girl, which focuses on what types of ingredients to use, and how to style your hair. There isn't a lot for natural black hair, but the rest of the information is beneficial.

Here is a breakdown of this method:

Sulfates are a harsh surfacant used to create suds and get the hair squeaky clean. Sulfates do an excellent job of cleaning the hair, BUT it strips your hair of it's natural oils, making it dry and damaged. I'd say about 99% of the shampoos sold in drugstores contain sulfates. Sulfates are also used in dish soap, since it so effective in getting rid of grease.

So how do I get clean, healthy hair? There are a few things that can be done to clarify the hair. There are plenty of shampoos on the market that are "lo-poos" that contain surfactants that are gentler than sulfates. One common method is to co-wash the hair. This is when a cheapie cone-free conditioner such as Suave Naturals or V05 is massaged onto to scalp to loosen any dirt, which can then be rinsed away. This is my preferred method, since it keeps my hair clean and moisturized. I have never had any problems with my hair not getting clean with this method. I only "low-poo" my hair when I get a lot of build-up (probably only 2x a mth). There are also natural ways to clairfy the hair, such as an Apple-Cider Vinegar Rinse and Baking Soda Clarification.

So why avoid silicones? Silicones form a layer over the hair, which is why they make hair look so sleek and shiny. That means your hair could be so damaged underneath, but all the silicones are doing are masking this damage. Also, the layer that it forms also blocks moisture from coming in or out. Another reason to avoid them are that the only thing that can remove them are harsh sulfates. Silicones are not water soluable, so if you do not use a sulfate shampoo, they will build up your hair and cause problems. There are exceptions to this rule though. There are certain silicones that are water soluable, which means that they can be co-washed out.  Also, "low-poos" can remove non-water soluable silicones. But I wouldn't advise this method, since using "low-poos" too often can still strip the hair.

There are also a few other ingredients that can build-up on the hair like silicones, such as mineral oil & petrolatum, that act just like silicones do. These are found mostly in black hair-care products. I'd say 99% of black hair care products sold at drugstores contain these ingredients. One reason I also dislike this ingredient is that it is a cheap filler, and really has no kind of benefit to the hair at all. It just gives the illusion of shine, but it doesn't actually do anything beneficial for your hair.

Alcohols should also be avoided, since they can dry out the hair. These should not be confused with the fatty, moisturizing alcohols.

This is the basic Curly Girl Method.

Here is a helpful list from Naturallycurly.com that lists all of the bad ingredients to avoid in your hair care products:

Sulfates (bad):

Alkylbenzene sulfonates
Ammonium laureth sulfate: can be drying to the hair
Ammonium lauryl sulfate: can be very drying to the hair
Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate
Sodium laureth sulfate: can be drying to the hair
Sodium lauryl sulfate: can be especially drying to the hair
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
Sodium myreth sulfate
Sodium Xylenesulfonate
TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulfate
Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate

Silicones (Proceed With Caution):

Amodimethicone not soluble in water by itself
Behenoxy Dimethicone Sparingly soluble in water
Cetearyl methicone not soluble in water
Cetyl Dimethicone not soluble in water
Cyclomethicone not soluble in water
Cyclopentasiloxane not soluble in water
Dimethicone not soluble in water
Dimethiconol not soluble in water
Stearoxy Dimethicone Sparingly soluble in water
Stearyl Dimethicone not soluble in water
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone not soluble in water

Water-Soluable Silicones (Okay!):

Dimethicone Copolyol water soluble
Lauryl methicone copolyol water soluble
Any non-water silicone with PEG in front of it
Drying Alcohols:
SD alcohol 40
Witch hazel
Isopropanol

Salts (Bad):

Calcium chloride
Magnesium chloride
Magnesium sulfate: has been found to add volume to hair, used to enhance curls
Potassium chloride
Potassium glycol sulfate
Sodium Chloride

Other Bad Ingredients:
Mineral oil
Paraffin
Petrolatum

Source: http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/celebrities/ingredients-commonly-found-in-hair-care-products

The Essentials for Natural Hair: 



There are certain items that are essential in the care of natural black hair. Here is a list of what you need to maintain your natural tresses:

1. Wide Tooth Shower Comb- This is essential because all detangling should be done in the shower, with hair that is fully saturated with water and conditioner.
2. Satin Scarf-This is important because it protects your hair as you sleep, because cotton pillow cases suck moisture out of your hair, and causes frizziness and tangles.
3. Satin Pillow Case- This is useful if your satin scarf comes off during the night, or if you cant bare your significant other seeing you in a satin scarf.
4. Conditioning Caps- These are essential for your deep treatments
5. Hard Hat or Soft Bonnet Dryer- These are useful for Deep Treatments, or Roller Sets
6. Sectioning Clips- I have found that it is so much easier to clip the sections you are not working on out of the way, so that it isn't interfering with the section you are currently working on.
7. Satin Scrunchies- These are needed for pineappling, or wearing your hair in a ponytail. They aren't as hard on your hair as traditional hair ties are.
8. Denman Brush (Optional)- I know some people are anti-brushes, but this brush defines curls very well. I currently use my denman to define my short style, but as soon as my hair is long enough for other styles I plan to stop using it as often.
9. Rat Tail Comb- I use this comb ONLY to make parts in my hair.
10. Boar Brush- This kind of brush is supposed to be the gentlest on black hair. Once again, I know a lot of naturals don't use brushes, but I use this one ocassionally.
11. Hair Shears- These are useful if you plan on dusting your own ends. Regular scissors should never be used to cut hair.
12. Flexi-Rods- These are useful for setting your hair and creating looser curls, or for Curly Nikki's famous twist & curl.
13. Clips, Bobby Pins, Head Bands, Pontail Holders, and Other Hair Accessories- These accessories are essential for creating cute styles.

For Roller Sets/Silk Wrap:

1. Magnetic Rollers- For straightening hair.
2. Roller Clips (Big Box)- For securing rollers.
3. Setting Lotion (Optional)- Helps to set the hair better.
4. Hair Net (Sally's)- For holding the rollers in place
5. Duckbill Clips- For wrapping hair, holds it in place.
6. Saran Wrap- For the silk wrap.
7. A Blow Dryer or Flat Iron- To straighten your roots after you do the silk wrap. Don't forget the HEAT PROTECTANT! You don't want to damage your hair!

With these essentials you are sure to have everything you need to keep your natural hair looking fabulous.

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